Belinda Carli is director of the Institute of Personal Care and a featured presenter at In-Cosmetics Global. The world's largest exhibition for the global cosmetics industry is set for April 16-18 in Paris. Carli recently provided insights into the rapidly-growing field of psycho-dermatology.


Happi: Define psycho-dermatology.

Carli: Psychodermatology is a term used to describe the connection between the mind and the skin. It considers how the mental wellbeing of a patient, particularly the impacts of anxiety, depression, stress and excess cortisol, can affect the skin. For example, skin irritation, skin dryness and even acne can be related to the mental wellbeing of a patient. Similarly, when the patient’s skin is impacted, this can further impact mental wellbeing.

Psychodermatology in the cosmetics industry looks specifically at how personal care ingredients and products can improve the appearance of the skin by accessing this interconnection.


Happi: The term has been around for years, but is gaining prominence. Why now? 

Carli: There are two reasons for this. The first is the significant rise in mental health issues experienced by society in general. The increased awareness and communication about these issues by various sources has openly pointed to how anxiety, depression and stress can impact so many facets of a persons’ life, including the skin. This isn’t the cosmetic brands saying it, but medical papers, practitioners and journalists reporting on it.

The second is that it is very difficult to make claims about a cosmetic product in relation to mental wellbeing. Before the rise in mental wellbeing awareness, it was just not a conversation a cosmetic brand could attempt. Even with the increased popularity and acceptance of the mind-skin connection, it is still against cosmetic regulations to make claims about a cosmetic product that go beyond the physical appearance of the skin. For example, even when you have active ingredients with proven efficacy data to show the mind-skin connection and benefits, a cosmetic brand still must be very careful how it markets and explains this connection. Since we are all now so much more aware of psychodermatology, linking the concepts of relaxation and self-care to an improvement in the skins’ appearance is easier to explain without breaching these cosmetic regulations.

Happi: What are the most common psychocutaneous disorders? Has there been an increase in occurrence in the past few years? Why?

Carli: There are the very obvious ones associated with the fight or flight response: redness of the skin and an increase in perspiration. For a person exposed to regular bouts of stress, these can cause discomfort and embarrassment. There are also longer-term, psychocutaneous disorders, such as acne worsened in teens and recurring in adults (a cortisol-hormonal interaction), an overall increase in sensitivity, drying of skin and degradation of collagen, which increases the appearance of aging as the body focuses on inflammation elsewhere resulting from stress. Although they are not conditions that are suited to cosmetic treatment, it can also cause psoriasis, urticaria and dermatitis.



Happi: What are the issues associated with psycho-dermatology; i.e., cutaneous side effects of psychiatric medicine?

Carli: There are various side effects with all medication, however this really needs to be discussed between a patient and his medical provider. When prescribing a medicine, doctors are the ones that make the judgement of whether the potential benefits of a medication outweigh the side effects to a patient.


Happi: How can mental health personnel work with dermatologists to improve patient outcomes?

Carli: Recognizing and explaining the mind-skin connection to a patient with mental health and skin issues can be the first step in giving that person hope in improving their appearance. There is no doubt that just about every one of us looks in a mirror every day with some form of judgement about our appearance – if we like what we see, it helps make us feel good about ourselves. For a person with a mental health issue, seeing a good reflection can provide, even momentarily, some reassurance. For a person with a skin issue, knowing that they are using products with clinical data of improvements can give hope. Even just soothing sensitive, dry or irritated skin with skincare products can help reduce a frustration that could otherwise add to anxiety. 


Happi: What role do cosmetics companies play in the psychodermatology arena?

By providing skincare incorporating active ingredients with proven mind-skin connectivity, cosmetic companies can help address the physical impacts of stress, anxiety and mental health issues; while at the same time, help improve the overall appearance and skin feel, which has direct improvements on the consumer's self-assessment and wellbeing.

Cosmetic companies are allowed to show the efficacy data of their actives to practitioners on a business-to-business basis; direct meetings with skincare specialists showing the physiological effects of their products and ingredients are not in breach of cosmetic regulations. It is only a breach of cosmetic regulations when consumer marketing promotes messages about the mental or cellular activity of a personal care product or the ingredients it contains. 


Happi: What actives are recommended for associated disorders?

Carli: There is an exciting and growing number of actives for use in cosmetic formulas to tackle psychodermatology issues, including, but not limited to: Rootness Mood + (Clariant); Epionine Bio (Laboratories Expanscience); TiMood (Mibelle Biochemistry); Joybliss and Telessence Breeztel (both by LipoTrue); Infini’tea Biofunctional (Ashland); and Myramaze-Essence (Rahn).

There are also a growing number of actives that address issues with sleep and skin rejuvenation during sleep, which also impacts mental wellbeing, such as: Regenight and Immunight (both by Lucas Meyer Cosmetics); Circanblue (Provital); Nightessence Biofunctional (Ashland) and Circalys (Greentech).


Belinda Carli, B Nat Therapies; Dip Cos Sci, director, Institute of Personal Care Science, will be speaking in the Marketing Trends Theatre at In-Cosmetics Global on Tuesday April 16, 2:45-3:30 pm. In the session, “The mind-skin connection: How to incorporate psychodermatology in cosmetic formulas.”

In-Cosmetics Global takes place at the Paris Expo Porte de Versailles, April 16-18. To register to attend the event, click here.